Wednesday, February 16, 2011

UL Requires New Holographic Labels for Communications Cable



To further enhance the integrity of the UL Mark, UL is introducing a holographic label requirement for a wide variety of cable categories. The new UL Marks include the use of secure golden holographic label material and color shifting inks to prevent unauthorized label reproduction.

This type of label has been proven an effective tool in deterring counterfeit products from entering the marketplace. Effective October 1, 2010 manufacturers will be required to apply holographic UL Marks for the products noted below. Although the holographic label is new, the remaining engineering marking information provided on the cable tags or reels and the methods for applying these markings remain unchanged.

• Communications Cable (DUZX/DUZX7)
• Communications Cable Verified to UL Performance Category Program (DUZX)
• Data Transmission Cable Verified in Accordance With National or International Specifications (DVBI)
• Community Antenna Television Cable (DVCS)
• Data Processing Cable (EMRB)
• Non-Power-Limited Fire-Alarm Cable (HNHT)
• Power-Limited Fire-Alarm Cable (HNIR / HNIR7)
• Instrumentation Tray Cable (NYTT)
• Network Powered Broadband Communications Cable (PWIP)
• Optical Fiber Cable (QAYK/QAYK7)
• Power Limited Circuit Cable (QPTZ)

Code authorities have already begun to see cables with the new holographic labels during their inspections, and will see an increasing number of cables with these markings in the future. You can expect to see the UL symbol on the product and the new holographic UL Listing Mark on the attached tag, the reel, or the smallest unit container in which the cable is packaged. The UL symbol will still appear on the surface print of the cable, and can be either the complete UL in a circle, or the letters “UL” in parenthesis “(UL)”. Surface printing of the UL Certification Mark on the wire insulation or jacketed material is only permissible when the accompanying reel or smallest unit container is also provided with the UL holographic Listing Mark. Although manufacturers cannot add non-holographic labels to cable after October 1, 2010, it may take a while for cable with the non-holographic Listing Marks to be cleared from the supply chain.



An example of the UL holographic label on Cat5e Bulk Communications Cable offered at Discount-Low-Voltage.com




Related Posts:
UL Warns About Counterfeit Communications Cable
UL Finds Performance & Safety Issues Found in Offshore Communications Cable
How Low Voltage Communications Cable is Made - Cat3, Cat5e, Cat6, OSP
25 Pair Cat3 Telephone Communications Cable Video
What is Plenum Communications Cable and When Should I use It
How To Make an Ethernet Cat5e/Cat6 Cable

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Interlock Armored Fiber Optic Cable or Non-Armored Fiber With Innerduct?

Fiber Optic Cable Installation:
Fiber optic cable is a great investment to any infrastructure, providing superior performance at much longer distances than traditional copper networks. When installing fiber optic cable, there's many factors to take into consideration. One of the most important, is how to protect your investment. Two of the most common routes to take are installing an innerduct, or buying fiber that has a layer of protection built in. Both have their pro's and con's, so lets take a look at each.



Fiber Optic Cable Installed in Innerduct:
Innerduct is a corrugated tube that surrounds your fiber optic cable giving it protection and acts as a pathway for the fiber to be pulled through. Innerduct comes in HDPE for outdoor use, PVC for indoor use and PLENUM for indoor use in plenum air spaces. Although innerduct is a great way to protect your fiber, it requires an extra step. This can result in higher labor costs, materials costs and possible additional equipment and freight fees. Long lengths of innerduct require very large wooden spools to be put on, which can be costly to ship and work with. Once the innerduct is installed, you proceed as usual: run your fiber optic cable, terminate and test it. Wouldn't it be easier if you could just run fiber and remove the innerduct step altogether? You can... keep reading.



Interlock Armored Fiber Optic Cable:
Interlock armored fiber cable is a great alternative to installing innerduct. Interlocking Armored Riser Cables are standard cables placed inside a spirally-wrapped aluminum interlocking armor for ruggedness and superior crush resistance. Designed for use in riser and general purpose environments for intrabuilding backbone and horizontal installations, these multifiber cables use individually jacketed TBII® Buffered Fibers enabling easy, consistent stripping and facilitating termination. This core is protected by a flexible, spiral-wrapped, aluminum interlocking armor that offers over seven times the crush protection compared to unarmored cables and easy one-step installation. With a flame-retardant outer jacket, this cable is particularly useful for heavy traffic or more challenging mechanical exposure conditions and applications requiring extra rugged cables. Interlocking armored fiber does have it's downfalls though. Future additions: when installing innerduct, you can reuse the cabling pathway to replace the fiber, or add additional fibers if you have extra space. This is a great way to maximize your investment. Without that innerduct installed, you will be starting the process all over again from the beginning. Pricing is also a concern. Interlock armored fiber is typically 3 times as expensive as regular non-armored fiber.

Here's a quick look at one of these cables from our YouTube Channel.



Tips:
- Always install the correct fiber and innerduct based on your buildings fire safety codes
- Future proof your installation if possible. Install a larger innerduct than needed or buy an interlocking armored fiber with additional strands of fiber.
- Pre Terminated Fiber Cable: Can cut fiber installation by 75%. This is a great option for beginners or long time fiber installers. Pre terminated fiber is custom made to your exact specs, comes with a pulling eye for easy installation and includes test results.

Related Articles:
Pulling Fiber Optic Cable
How It's Made: Fiber Optic Cable
How To Install Fiber Optic Fan Out Kit for Loose Tube Fiber
Difference Between: Loose Tube Fiber and Tight Buffered Fiber
How To Terminate Fiber Optic Cable Using AFL FAST Connectors    

"By Mercy Salinas"

Thursday, August 5, 2010

How To Find Underground Wires & Valves Using Greenlee 521A


Contents:
1) Headset
2) Ground Stake
3) Transmitter
4) Receiver
5) Carrying Case
6) Black Lead
7) Red Lead
8) Selector Knob
9) ON/OFF Switch
10) Battery Cover

Batteries (included)
• Transmitter: Qty 8 - "D" batteries
• Receiver: Qty 1 - 9v alkaline battery

Note: The transmitter produces high voltage. Turn the transmitter off before handling the output leads. Disconnect all wires from the controller when fault locating. Turn the selector knob to the BATTERY TEST position. The meter should read between 8 and 10.

Before starting, you must ensure the transmitter is set up properly.

IMPORTANT: To ensure that the 521A transmitter is producing optimum signal, connect the red and black leads together and turn the unit on. Turn the selector knob to position #5. The meter needle should rise to at least a 10 reading.

1. With the transmitter off, connect the red lead to the wire to be located and the black lead to a good earth ground with the stake provided. (Refer to Figure 1). If the clock is indoors, the earth ground stake MUST be grounded at the point where the wires exit the building. It might require running a length of wire to the
outside. Do not use a common ground inside (i.e., electrical or water pipe).



2. Now turn the transmitter on and start rotating the selector knob clockwise.
Once you leave the BATTERY TEST position and go to #1, the meter needle will fall off to near zero. As you increase the output, the needle will rise slightly with each advancement. Stop when the meter reads between 4 and 8. The transmitter is now set for maximum efficiency for this job. If a reading of 4 is not obtainable, you may not have enough of a ground fault to locate the wire.

Soil condition can also affect the efficiency of the unit. Moisture is a good conductor, so the wetter the soil, the better. In dry or sandy conditions you may experience signal loss. Add some water near the ground stake to improve results.

3. Plug the headset into the receiver if desired, turn it on and point the antenna or probe end at the transmitter. A pulsing tone should be heard through the headset and an indication should register on the receiver meter.

Operation

Locating Wire Path
With the probe pointed toward the ground, walk completely around the transmitter location. An absence of tone or null will be detected directly over the path of the wire. Movement to either side will cause the volume of tone signal intensity to increase. Follow the null to determine the wire path. (Refer to Figure 2.)

Finding Wire Breaks and Nicks
When attempting to find breaks and nicks, you should decrease the sensitivity of the receiver when pointing it off to either side of the null. You will be able to notice the change in signal intensity immediately. Do not allow the meter to peg or go above 10. This will greatly help in the fault locating process.
Note: The wire must have a path to ground to be successfully located. These paths exist in a great majority of all direct buried wires due to insulation imperfections, nicks, and bad splices. If not, create one by grounding the remote end.
• The end of a cut or broken wire can be located by following the path until the null disappears and gives way to a hot spot. Beyond the hot spot, no null can be detected. Back up until the null is detected, and this will be the approximate end of the broken wire. (Refer to Figure 3.)
• Larger nicks in the wire can be located in almost the same way as locating opens. Follow the null and strong signal along the sides of the wire until the signal becomes very weak along the sides of the null. This will occur within a relatively short distance. The transmitted signal bleeds to ground at the nick and then wants to return to the ground stake along the outside of the wire itself. The majority of signals will stop at the nick indicated by the low receiver reading just beyond the nick. (Refer to Figure 4.)
• To more accurately define the location of an open or larger nick (ground fault), position the receiver tip on the ground near the point where the last strong signal was detected along the side of the path. The receiver tip should be pointing at the ground and be approximately 6 inches to either side from the null. Because you are so much closer to the path, the sensitivity knob must be adjusted down until the meter reads just below 10.

While maintaining the 6-inch distance from the null, move the receiver down the line, paying close attention to the meter reading. Once you pass the open or nick, the meter will fall off rapidly.


Determining Depth of Wire
To determine the depth of the wire, first mark the ground directly over the path. Turn the receiver sideways to the path, and tip it 45 degrees. Move the receiver away from the path, maintaining the 45-degree tip until a null is detected. Mark this spot. The depth is the distance between the two marks. (Refer to Figure 5.)


Two-Step Solenoid Valve Locating Process
Solenoid valves can easily be located provided all the wires leading to them are intact and the solenoid itself is still good.
Step 1. Start at the clock. Connect the red transmitter lead to the station wire leading to the subject valve, and connect the black lead to earth ground. Turn the transmitter on, adjust the output to the highest level, assemble the receiver, locate the path, and start tracing the wire following the null. The null will be present until you pass over a solenoid valve, and then the signal will become extremely strong. Mark this spot. Check around this hot spot for a null leaving the area. If the null continues, follow it and mark any additional hot spots. (Refer to Figure 6.) If only one hot spot or valve is located, it will be the valve in question.
Step 2. If more than one hot spot is found, mark them and return to the transmitter and turn it off. Lift the black lead from the ground stake and connect it to the common wire. Turn the transmitter on, set the selector knob to the highest reading, and return to the first hot spot with the receiver. Touch the tip of the receiver antenna to the ground in the center of the first hot spot and set the sensitivity knob to read near mid-scale. Now go to the second spot and without touching the sensitivity knob, check the strength of the signal at each hot spot and determine which, out of all of them, is the strongest signal. This is the valve for the station wire you are connected to.


Greenlee 521A Maintenance

Battery Replacement
1. Turn the unit off.
2. Remove the battery cover.
3. Replace the batteries (observe polarity).
4. Replace the battery cover.

Cleaning
Periodically wipe with a damp cloth and mild detergent; do not use abrasives or solvents.


Questions? Leave them below. Thanks!